Located southeast of Ribeira Grande is the municipality of Paúl, home to its pretty main town of Vila das Pombas and, stretching behind the coast, the dreamy valley that winds up into the heart of the island. Thousands of people live in villages and hamlets that dot this idyllic valley, known for its lush and fertile land. Flowers and fruit trees are everywhere – from breadfruit to bananas and bougainvilleas – as are sugarcane fields; Paúl is famed for its potent grogue. A scenic country road leads from Vila das Pombas up the valley, passing the villages of Eito, Passagem, Lombinho, Chã João Vaz and Cabo de Ribeira, where the road ends. A steep cobblestone footpath leads from Cabo de Ribeira to Cova, an extinct volcanic crater whose floor is a patchwork of farms and lush greenery.To immerse yourself in all this beauty, it's worth staying at one of the inns scattered around the valley. The owners at all of these can set you up with local guides and transfers. The first one up from Vila das Pombas is Wahnon Guesthouse in Eito. It's a family estate with rooms showcasing mahogany floors and antique handcrafted furniture and space for camping amid banana, sugarcane, avocado and mango trees.Next up following the country road is Casa das Ilhas, a pleasant set of houses on a hillside, reachable along a 15-minute uphill footpath (they'll carry your luggage). The well-equipped rooms range in comfort and size but all come with amazing valley views.Further inland, on a hillside away from the main road, is the charming Aldeia Manga, which has four two-person adobe bungalows (cold water only) and a big house for families with soft pine furnishings and solar-heated showers. There's a lush garden with hammocks and a small natural pool with valley views. Meals are available and there's free wi-fi in the public area. Along the road in Chã João Vaz is O Curral, known to locals as Alfred's, a straw-roofed restaurant, farm shop and grogue distillery run by an Austrian who's been living in the valley for decades. The earthy dining room made of natural and recycled materials is a great spot to fill up on organic food and local coffee after the walk from Cova crater.In the last roadside village is the adorable Spanish-run Casa Cavoquinho housed in an orange building nestled on a hillside, with three recently spruced-up doubles with private bathrooms, pine floors, and hot water on demand. There's a terrace with dazzling valley views and a hammock, and wi-fi (for a fee).The last lodging option in the valley is Chez Sandro, a hostel-like guesthouse run by a Frenchman and his Capeverdian wife. There's computer use (for a fee), hot water in the mornings and free laundry after three days. Downstairs is a cosy bar-restaurant with 25 different kinds of local liqueur, homemade ice cream and good food. Paúl Located southeast of Ribeira Grande is the municipality of Paúl, home to its pretty main town of Vila das Pombas and, stretching behind the coast, the dreamy valley that winds up into the heart of theThousands of people live in villages and hamlets that dot this idyllic valley, known for its lush and fertile land. Flowers and fruit trees are everywhere – from breadfruit to bananas and bougainvilleas – as are sugarcane fields; Paúl is famed for its potent grogue. A scenic country road leads from Vila das Pombas up the valley, passing the villages of Eito, Passagem, Lombinho, Chã João Vaz and Cabo de Ribeira, where the road ends. A steep cobblestone footpath leads from Cabo de Ribeira to Cova, an extinct volcanic crater whose floor is a patchwork of farms and lush greenery.

 

To immerse yourself in all this beauty, it's worth staying at one of the inns scattered around the valley. The owners at all of these can set you up with local guides and transfers. The first one up from Vila das Pombas is Wahnon Guesthouse in Eito. It's a family estate with rooms showcasing mahogany floors and antique handcrafted furniture and space for camping amid banana, sugarcane, avocado and mango trees.

 

Next up following the country road is Casa das Ilhas, a pleasant set of houses on a hillside, reachable along a 15-minute uphill footpath (they'll carry your luggage). The well-equipped rooms range in comfort and size but all come with amazing valley views.

 

Further inland, on a hillside away from the main road, is the charming Aldeia Manga, which has four two-person adobe bungalows (cold water only) and a big house for families with soft pine furnishings and solar-heated showers. There's a lush garden with hammocks and a small natural pool with valley views. Meals are available and there's free wi-fi in the public area.

 

Along the road in Chã João Vaz is O Curral, known to locals as Alfred's, a straw-roofed restaurant, farm shop and grogue distillery run by an Austrian who's been living in the valley for decades. The earthy dining room made of natural and recycled materials is a great spot to fill up on organic food and local coffee after the walk from Cova crater.

In the last roadside village is the adorable Spanish-run Casa Cavoquinho housed in an orange building nestled on a hillside, with three recently spruced-up doubles with private bathrooms, pine floors, and hot water on demand. There's a terrace with dazzling valley views and a hammock, and wi-fi (for a fee).

The last lodging option in the valley is , a hostel-like guesthouse run by a Frenchman and his Capeverdian wife. There's computer use (for a fee), hot water in the mornings and free laundry after three days. Downstairs is a cosy bar-restaurant with 25 different kinds of local liqueur, homemade ice cream and good food (mains CVE650).